A hexagon patchwork cardigan looks complex, but it’s wonderfully modular. You build small solid hexagon motifs, block them to one size, then seam them together like tiles to form the back, two fronts, and sleeves. Working in pieces keeps the project portable and lets you fine-tune fit with simple math: add or subtract motifs. This version uses worsted-weight yarn for cozy drape and stitch definition, plus firm ribbed borders to frame the patchwork. The silhouette is relaxed with dropped shoulders, sleeves, and a hip-length body that layers well over tees or dresses.
The heart of the pattern is a tidy six-corner hexagon that grows from a magic ring with steady corner increases. After you make a few, the rhythm becomes meditative: work the round, block, stack, repeat. Once your pile matches the layout for your size, join the motifs in long rows, then join the rows into panels. Seam shoulder edges, add sleeve strips, and close the sides. Finish with a neckline and front bands in front-post/back-post ribbing so the edges lie flat and feel sturdy in daily wear.
Because everything is built from identical units, sizing is forgiving and alterations are simple. Want extra room? Add a column of hexagons to each panel. Prefer a cropped look? Remove a row. Color is flexible too—go monochrome for a calm, modern look or mix scraps for playful patchwork. Either way, the result is a soft, handmade cardigan with graphic geometry and satisfying texture.
Materials
- Worsted-weight yarn (Category 4), dusty rose (single color for a calm patchwork)
Approx yardage: S 1000–1100 yds, M 1200–1350 yds, L 1500–1650 yds, XL 1650–1800 yds, 2X 1900–2100 yds - Hook: 5.5 mm (I/9) for motifs; 5.0 mm (H/8) for ribbing
- Stitch markers, yarn needle, scissors, tape measure
- Blocking mats, rust-free pins, handheld steamer (or gentle wet block)
Abbreviations: MR magic ring, ch chain, sl st slip stitch, sc single crochet, dc double crochet, st(s) stitch(es), sp space, rep repeat, RS/WS right/wrong side.
Gauge: Each blocked hexagon measures 4 in / 10 cm across flat (side-to-side, not point-to-point). Adjust hook to match.
Size and Motif Counts (approx.)
- S: Back 4×4 (16), Fronts 2×4 each (16), Sleeves 3×2 each (12) → 44 motifs
- M: Back 5×4 (20), Fronts 3×4 each (24), Sleeves 3×2 each (12) → 56 motifs
- L: Back 5×5 (25), Fronts 3×5 each (30), Sleeves 4×2 each (16) → 71 motifs
- XL: Back 6×5 (30), Fronts 3×5 each (30), Sleeves 4×2 each (16) → 76 motifs
- 2X: Back 6×5 (30), Fronts 4×5 each (40), Sleeves 4×3 each (24) → 94 motifs
Fit tip: Add or remove a column/row to adjust width/length. Aim for 2–4 in positive ease.
Hexagon Motif (solid, neat corners)
Round 1 (center): MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in ring, ch 1. (2 dc, ch 1) five more times (6 ch-1 corners). Join with sl st to top of ch-3. Gently close ring. (12 dc, six ch-1 sps)
Round 2: Sl st into next ch-1 sp. Ch 3, dc in same sp, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp (corner made). Dc in each dc across to next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in corner sp. Rep around. Join.
Rounds 3–5 (or to size): Rep Round 2: place (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in each corner sp; dc in every st along sides.
Last round (stabilize): Sc in each dc; in each corner work (sc, ch 1, sc). Fasten off. Block to 4 in side-to-side.
Make the required motif count for your size.
Layout, Seaming, and Assembly
- Block & layout: Arrange motifs for the back as a rectangle, then each front rectangle, and sleeve strips as listed above. Keep orientation consistent.
- Join motifs (WS): With RS together, slip-stitch through back loops only or whipstitch neatly. Join motifs into rows, then join rows into panels.
- Shoulders & neckline: Place fronts on back (RS together). Seam along top edges for shoulders, leaving a centered neck opening 7–9 in / 18–23 cm (size-dependent).
- Sleeves: Join sleeve strips; seam into tubes or attach flat to arm openings, easing evenly.
- Side & sleeve seams: With RS together, seam from cuff to underarm to hem.
- Front/neck band: With 5.0 mm hook and RS facing, sc evenly around both fronts and neckline; then work 8–10 rows FPdc/BPdc for a firm rib. Optional buttonholes: on Row 3, work ch 1, sk 1 where needed.
- Hem & cuffs: Sc foundation around hem and cuffs; work 6–8 rows FPdc/BPdc.
- Finish: Weave ends, steam lightly, let cool flat.
1. Supplies
Supplies laid out neatly on a clean cream table: four cakes of worsted-weight dusty rose yarn, 5.5 mm (I/9) hook, 5.0 mm hook for ribbing, locking stitch markers, yarn needle, sharp scissors, flexible tape measure, blocking mats with rust-free pins, a small steamer, and a notebook with a simple grid sketch. Keep everything in one color to match the planned monochrome patchwork. This kit keeps the project portable and tidy from the first motif to the final band. Take a quick photo of your labeled setup so coming back later feels effortless. Stay organized always.
2. Starting the Center
Start your first hexagon: make a magic ring, chain three, then place one double crochet, chain one; repeat two double crochets, chain one five more times for six corners total. Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch, then gently close the ring tail so the center is snug but not puckered. Set a marker in any chain-one space. The dusty rose yarn shows stitches clearly, which helps your hands relax into a steady rhythm. Pause, measure, breathe. Clean loops now make every later round easier and neater. Count stitches twice to prevent mistakes and keep corners balanced.
3. Growing the Hexagon
Work growth rounds: slip stitch into the marked corner, then in every corner work (two double crochets, chain one, two double crochets). Place one double crochet in each stitch along the sides. Keep your tension even and let the hook do the lifting; avoid tugging. Steam-block lightly after round four so the hexagon lies flat and measures close to goal. Make a small stack of identical motifs in dusty rose. Stacks help you spot size drift early and correct by changing hook or softening your grip. Aim for consistent side counts; matching pieces seam faster and flatter. Every time.
4. Block and Plan Layout
Block for accuracy. Pin each dusty rose hexagon to a blocking mat so opposite sides align and corner points are squared. Hover a steamer to relax the fibers; let pieces dry completely. Lay out your size grid: for Small, plan a 4×4 back, two 2×4 fronts, and two 3×2 sleeve strips. Adjust counts for other sizes using the chart in the pattern. Photograph the arrangement. This visual plan prevents guesswork during seaming and keeps lengths even left to right. Tuck each row into a labeled bag to carry to the couch or class. For easy portable progress.
5. Join the Back Panel
Join the back first. With right sides facing, slip-stitch through the back loops only along each seam to create flat, flexible joins that disappear into the fabric. Work slowly and keep edge stitch counts matched. After each row of joins, lay the panel flat and check for waves; if you see ripples, your motifs may need a gentler block or a looser joining hand. The dusty rose tone hides seams beautifully once opened and smoothed. Press very lightly with steam after the whole back is joined. Let everything cool flat before lifting to preserve shape memory. And clean edges.
6. Build Fronts, Shoulders, Sleeves
Assemble fronts and shoulders. Join each front panel, then place them on the back with right sides together. Seam shoulder edges, leaving a centered neckline opening that feels comfortable—about one motif width for smaller sizes, a bit wider for larger. Next, attach sleeve strips to the arm openings, easing evenly so the cap sits flat. Fold the cardigan, right sides together, and seam sleeves and sides in one continuous pass. Turn right side out and admire the clean geometry. The single color makes the shapes shine. Check reach and shoulder drop, adjust seams if anything feels tight or twist.
7. Borders, Cuffs, Hem
Pick up borders. With the 5.0 mm hook, work one round of single crochet around the front edges and neck to even the perimeter, placing three stitches into each outer corner. Switch to front-post/back-post double crochet for eight to ten rows to form a firm, stretchy band. Add optional buttonholes by working “chain one, skip one” on row three where needed. Work matching FP/BP ribbing on cuffs and hem, six to eight rows each. Keep your yarn angle relaxed so ribbing springs without flaring. Steam lightly when finished for a tailored look. And clean edges.
8. Final Look
Final beauty. Hang the finished cardigan on a simple wooden hanger against a neutral wall. Light brushes the dusty rose patchwork so every hexagon reads, yet the joins melt away. Sleeves are relaxed, shoulders drop softly, and the ribbed bands frame the body with a clean line. Photograph a few angles: front, back, and a close-up of the ribbing. Slip it on and check movement—reach forward, hug yourself, lift your arms. You want easy, cozy motion without pulling or twisting, proof your layout worked. Note any tweaks for next time and celebrate a polished handmade finish. Well done.
Final Thoughts
Patchwork lets you build a custom fit without drama. Keep every hexagon the same blocked size, follow the grid, and your seams will land cleanly. If you need more room, add a column to each panel; if you want cropped, remove a row. A single color looks modern and lets texture shine, while ribbed bands make the cardigan durable for daily wear. Take your time on blocking and joining—those two steps decide the finish. Enjoy your cardigan.
